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Natural Gas vs Propane
For most people the answer is simple: if a natural gas line already reaches your patio, buy the natural gas model. If it does not, buy propane. Running a new gas line is the expensive part of this decision, not the grill.
The reason it matters is that on nearly every built-in grill, fuel type is not a setting you change later. It is decided by the orifices and the regulator the grill ships with, and on some models it cannot be changed at all. People find this out after the island is built.
Here is what actually separates the two.
The practical differences
Supply. Natural gas never runs out mid-cook. Propane does, usually on a Saturday with people in the backyard. If you go propane, own two tanks and treat the spare as part of the grill.
Running cost. Natural gas is generally the cheaper fuel per hour of cooking in most of the country, though how much cheaper depends entirely on your utility rate. The saving is real but it is rarely the deciding factor, because the install cost of a new line takes years of grilling to pay back.
Heat output. This is the one people get wrong. Propane carries more energy per unit of volume, so a grill's rated BTU figure often differs slightly between its natural gas and propane versions. In practice, on a properly specified grill, you will not taste the difference. Anyone telling you propane "cooks hotter" is comparing a number, not a steak.
Placement. A natural gas grill is fixed to where the line comes out. A propane grill can move. If you are not certain where the outdoor kitchen is going to live in five years, that flexibility has value.
Resale and rental. If the property is a rental or you expect to move soon, propane travels with you. A natural gas grill plumbed into an island does not.
Why the model number matters
Natural gas and propane grills are not the same grill with a different label. They differ in at least two places:
- Orifices. The small brass fittings that meter gas into each burner. Natural gas is delivered at lower pressure, so the openings are larger.
- Regulator. Different pressure, different device. Propane grills also carry a tank connection with a safety device built in.
Many manufacturers use different SKUs entirely, and the fuel type sits in the model number. When you order, check it. When your installer orders on your behalf, check it again. This is the single most common expensive mistake in an outdoor kitchen build, and it usually surfaces on the day the plumber arrives.
Can you convert a grill?
Sometimes. It depends on the manufacturer and the specific model, and the honest answer has three branches:
- The manufacturer sells a conversion kit for that model. This is the only route we would recommend. The kit is model-matched and comes with instructions, and the work should be done by a qualified gas fitter.
- The manufacturer permits conversion but does not supply a kit. Treat this with caution. Third-party orifice sets exist, and they are a common source of badly burning grills and voided warranties.
- The manufacturer prohibits conversion. Several do, on certain models, and in that case the grill is the fuel it was sold as. No amount of parts changes that.
> To verify before publishing: confirm the current conversion policy for the > brands we carry and either name them here or leave this section generic. Do not > publish specific brand policies that have not been checked against current > manufacturer documentation.
Whatever the route, converting a grill is gas work. It is not a YouTube job, and a wrong orifice produces a yellow, sooty, carbon-monoxide-heavy flame rather than an obvious failure. That is exactly the kind of fault you do not notice until it matters.
If you are building an island
Decide the fuel before the island is framed, not after. Two things to get right at rough-in:
- Where the stub comes up. It needs to land inside the cabinet under the grill cutout, with enough slack to connect without straining the line, and with access for a shut-off valve you can actually reach.
- What else is running off the line. A side burner, a power burner or a second grill all draw gas. The line has to be sized for the total, and that is a conversation with your gas fitter before the trench is dug, not after.
If you are working through cutout sizes and appliance placement at the same time, our built-in grills collection lists the specification for each head, and we are happy to check a plan over the phone before anything is ordered.
Frequently asked questions
Which is cheaper to run, natural gas or propane?
Natural gas is usually cheaper per hour of cooking, though the gap depends on your local utility rate. If a line already exists, natural gas is the cheaper grill to own. If it does not, the cost of running one outweighs years of fuel savings.
Does propane cook hotter than natural gas?
Not meaningfully. Propane carries more energy per unit of volume, so rated BTU figures can differ between the two versions of the same grill, but a properly specified grill of either type reaches searing temperature without trouble.
Can I use a third-party conversion kit?
We would not. Use a manufacturer kit for your specific model, fitted by a qualified gas fitter, or keep the fuel the grill was sold with. Third-party orifice sets are a common cause of poor combustion and rejected warranty claims.
What if I move?
A propane grill comes with you. A natural gas grill plumbed into an island stays. Worth thinking about before you commit to a built-in if a move is likely.
I already own the wrong one. What now?
Check whether the manufacturer lists a conversion kit for your exact model. If they do not, selling it on and buying the correct fuel type is often cheaper than the workarounds people attempt.
Choosing a grill
Once the fuel is settled, the rest is easier. Browse gas grills or, if you are building it in, our built-in grills. Regulators, valves and orifices for existing grills are in grill parts.
If you want a second opinion on a plan before you order, call 1 (866) 850-3450. We would much rather talk it through now than sort it out after the concrete has cured.